Q&A: How often should I be getting me shears sharpened?

Q. My sharpener just sharpened my shears. They worked great for a few weeks, but now they're dull again... How long should my shears stay sharp for?

A. There are many factors that affect how long your shears will stay sharp between sharpenings. Although any shear sharpener is certainly responsible for restoring the edge of the blade as close as possible to factory specifications, even the best sharpener can't change the type of metal the shear is made of nor how the shear is used after it is sharpened. While poor sharpening may remove too much metal from the blade, it's also overlooking daily maintenance and how it's being used to cut that can shorten the life of your shears. The quality of metal also affects the life expectancy of your shears. 

The moment you get your shears back is a great time for a your sharpener to help educate you about the proper fit of the shear in your hand and the signs you can look for to help extend the use of your shears between sharpenings. Proper use will not only extend the life of your shear, but save you a lot of money in the long run. 

Factors impacting the life of your shear include:

• Metal of the Shear. Metal is a very important factor and you get what you pay for in most cases. Steel in the "440 series" (440A to 440C) are lower grade metal so shears made with 440-series steel will require more sharpening over time. S-1 to S-3 (also called "Silver") tooling steels and the V-series (V-1 to V-10 "Gold") are better quality metal and will last slightly longer between sharpenings. Hitachi ATS-314 is the best quality (and therefore some of the most expensive scissors you will find). (Tempering and country of origin are two other important factors that will determine the quality and lifespan of your shear, which we'll discuss in a future post).
• Sharpener's Experience. It’s very important to find a sharpener who can sharpen your shears without removing too much blade. Every time your shear is sharpened it removes metal from the blade. That's just how sharpening works. But with that metal the life of your shear is getting shaved down too. An experienced sharpener will remove the minimum amount of metal in order to restore the sharpness of the blade.
  
  
• Time vs. Quantity. It’s not how many days should your shear require sharpening but, how much you use it.  Every stylist's appointment book is different and depending on how much cutting you're doing with your shears you may need to get your shears sharpened more or less frequently. We recommend getting your shears sharpened or inspected when you start to have problems with it..
  
  
• Tension. Tension is the most important factor affecting how quickly your shears dull. If your tension is too loose or too tight then your shear can dull in days or as little as a few hair cuts.  Just like a dentist will remind you to brush your teeth every day, a sharpener will remind you to oil and adjust the tension on your shears daily. You will also want to stay aware of horizontal thumb pressure where Hikari outlines here
  
• Folding Hair - This is the number one way to tell if you're going to dull your shears quickly. If your shear is folding hair it is too loose! Do not use your shear. When your shear loosens, by nature a stylist will hold the shear together causing a horizontal pressure pushing the blades together, which causes friction that dulls the blade very fast requiring more frequent sharpenings and a lower lifetime on the shear.  

Ultimately its up to the stylist how long their shears will stay sharp for.  Stylists who take care of their shears by storing them correctly in cases instead of loosely in a drawer will prevent nicks and damaged tips.  Also adjusting tension and oiling daily will extend the life of your shear and the time between sharpenings. If you are not sure what to do, feel free to ask your local sharpener / scissor distributor and they should be more than happy to show you proper care and maintenance.